The Huasteca Canyon is the urban crag of Monterrey. Misguided by sketchy stories from the distant past, gringos seldom visit here, leaving the locals to hone their skills on what is probably the best rock in the state of Nuevo Leon. Several areas exist (see map), each with a distinct flavor. Bring your humility (the routes have stiff ratings), your best smearing shoes, and prepare to use lots of body tension on marginal handholds and slippery footholds. Talk to the locals; they are friendly and many speak excellent English. And they climb hard!
La Huasteca
Huasteca Walls
Las Cazuelas. Located near the park entrance, this is the most popular place to climb in the Huasteca. A couple of 5.9 routes exist, as well as a few classic lines at around 5.11. But the prize here is the central wall, peppered with shallow pockets - the 'cazuelas'. All routes here are 12 or harder and require burly pinches between the pockets.

Zona Extrema. Located a few km inside the canyon, ths wall as the greatest concentration of moderate routes, as well as a beautiful long route rated at 5.11 - 'Gran Maestro'.

Guitarritas. Favoite of many locals, the rock here resembles that of the Potrero. Located about a 30 minute drive on dirt roads from the park gate.

Medicos This south-facing crag is good for climbing in the sunshine on cooler days. The rock is very compact and has sharp crimpers that are often invisible from below..

San Judas. A handful of 5.10 routes exist on an attractive grey face in the narrowest part of the canyon. If you seek moderate routes, this area is worth the 40 minute hike up a gravelly stream bed.
The urban scene: Enrico Tapavicza pulls down on a Cazuelas 5.12.
La Huasteca canyon in view from the city of Santa Catarina, a suburb of Monterrey.
Looking up the Gran Maestro route.
Mauricio enjoying one of the stiffer routes at Zona Extrema.
Crimpy, slabby routes abound at Medicos.
How to Get There